From Pedrouzo (O Pino) to Santiago de Compostela

 

 

 

Here I am at the final stage.

– Today, I will finally reach Santiago de Compostela. –

However, this will not mark the end of my journey, because after reaching the tomb of the Apostle James, I will continue walking for another three days to Finisterre, where I will dip my feet into the Atlantic Ocean.

 

Today's route does not require particular effort: there are no significant inclines, and the total distance to cover is just under twenty kilometres.

Despite the short stage, we leave the hostel at 5:00, starting an hour and a half earlier than usual.

The purpose of this early start is to reach our destination by ten at the latest, allowing us time to enjoy our arrival in front of the cathedral, collect the Compostela, and secure seats in advance for the “pilgrim’s mass” at noon.

It is advisable to enter the cathedral at least half an hour before the service begins if you want a good seat; of course, the earlier, the better.

 

We set off while it is still night. Just outside O Pedrouzo, without the streetlights, the surroundings are pitch dark. To see where we are stepping, we have to rely on our pocket torches.

Shortly after leaving the town, The Way enters a forest.

 

In this initial part of the route, the atmosphere is dreamlike.

With no moonlight, darkness envelops everything, and only the flickering beams of the torches are visible. Various black silhouettes move forward in the same direction, though without any synchrony. Their figures, distorted by the curvature of the backpacks, seem more like fantastical beings populating the woods than human shapes.

The only sounds are those of boots striking the dirt path.

 

It is only around 6:30 that the first light of dawn begins to shape and colour the people, objects, and surroundings.

 

The only thing that fails to materialise is a café.

Since we started so early without eating, hunger begins to gnaw at us, and a place for breakfast would be welcome.

 

Among the many pilgrims on The Way, we spot someone we know – Giulia.

She is walking briskly and, without slowing down, calls out that she wants to reach the city in time to attend the “pilgrim’s mass” in Italian at ten.

With that, she speeds past us and quickly disappears from view.

 

It is seven o’clock, and daylight is now full as we reach Lavacolla, about ten kilometres from Santiago de Compostela, where the city’s airport is also located.

We walk right along the edge of the runway, which we cannot see as it is at a higher level than the road. However, we can hear the loud roar of planes taxiing before take-off.

The noise of the engines jolts us fully awake, returning us to the modern era.

The urban area is now close, and as we continue, we find ourselves increasingly surrounded by concrete, asphalt, traffic, and all the typical features of modern cities.

The ancient pilgrims, with whom we often felt a shared experience while crossing old villages, medieval bridges, and ancient woods, now return to life only in history books and legends, while we step into the “future” with its pros and cons.

 

Here in Lavacolla, just beyond the airport, there is still a small medieval church worth a glance.

This tiny religious building, dedicated to Saint Paio, seems to be placed here to offer pilgrims a chance for personal prayer or meditation before concluding their journey and immersing themselves in the bustling Santiago de Compostela.

 

After several rainy stages, we consider ourselves fortunate to be walking under the sun today. The temperature is mild, though not warm enough to forgo our jumpers.

It feels like a reward to arrive in Santiago de Compostela with pleasant weather after enduring so many hardships caused by bad weather.

 

It is nine o’clock when we pass through Monte de Gozo, the hill where pilgrims in the past would first catch sight of the cathedral spires in Santiago and rejoice at being so close to their goal.

The translation of “gozo” is, in fact, “joy.”

Today, however, the modern buildings have marred the site, stripping it of the spirituality it once possessed.

Here, pilgrims used to spend their final night.

Before presenting themselves before the Saint, they would prepare by singing litanies and thanking God for giving them the strength to complete The Way.

 

From Monte de Gozo, a road sign indicates that 4.7 kilometres remain to the Galician capital.

To be precise, this distance refers to the cathedral, while we are almost in the city already.

Indeed, just a bit further on, we come across the welcome sign marking the start of Santiago de Compostela.

The closer we get, the faster our pace becomes. We unconsciously accelerate, driven by rising excitement.

The dirt tracks are now a memory, replaced by urban streets that we must follow to reach our goal.

 

In the suburbs, I meet Maria, a friend from Alba in Piedmont whom I have not seen for quite some time.

We first met in Roncesvalles, and from there, along with Peppe and Franco from Naples, we shared several stages together.

Later, Maria began following a Galician pilgrim, speeding up her pace and covering much longer distances than average.

Now I find her here in Santiago de Compostela, where she arrived a few days ago.

She tells me she has torn tendons, or something similar.

It seems to be a fairly serious problem, making it very difficult for her to walk.

I am glad to see her again and hear her news, even if it is not good.

After a brief chat, she stays to wait for the bus to the city centre while I resume my “final sprint” towards the cathedral.

Between rúa San Pedro and rúa da Virxe da Cerca, an inscription carved into the pavement, repeated in several languages, reads: “Europe was made on the pilgrim road to Compostela.”

My interpretation is that pilgrimages, particularly The Way of Saint James, have helped bring people closer together, laying the foundations for a united Europe.

For over a thousand years, countless individuals have walked a dense network of routes across the old continent to reach Santiago de Compostela, Rome, and the Holy Land.

 

The historical heart of Santiago de Compostela is a cluster of ancient buildings; the beauty of its monasteries, churches, palaces, and streets is enriched by the city’s spiritual and cultural significance.

 

Immersed in this setting, we cover the last few hundred metres, passing through praza de Cervantes and shortly after, praza da Inmaculada.

From the latter square, only one final passage remains to complete The Way—crossing the arch of the Archbishop’s Palace.

Walking beneath its vaulted ceiling, which acts as an echo chamber, we are accompanied by the evocative sound of bagpipes played by a street musician.

This arch can be regarded as the final gate of the French Way, just as its beginning is marked by the Porte Notre-Dame in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port.

 

It is 10:10 when we arrive at the final destination of all the routes leading to Santiago de Compostela—praza do Obradoiro.

 

The square is a vast rectangular expanse, roughly the size of a regulation football field.

 

Once through the arch of the Archbishop’s Palace, the first building I see is the pazo de Raxoi, a neoclassical palace that now houses the city council.

As I move toward the centre of the square, I glance to my left and feel a surge of emotion…

– There it is, finally, the magnificent cathedral of Santiago! –

I feel so small in front of this imposing structure.

Its baroque façade is richly carved, resembling a massive stone altarpiece, and its twin towers rise 76 metres into the sky.

At the top centre, the statue of Saint James greets pilgrims from around the world, while halfway up, statues of Salome and Zebedee—his mother and father—stand on either side.

A monumental staircase at the base leads to the cathedral entrance.

 

The emotion of reaching this point, after a month of walking and 767 kilometres covered entirely on foot from the Pyrenees, is overwhelming.

 

I sit on the ground, in the centre of the square, as do the friends who are with me.

We remain in silent contemplation, our eyes fixed on the monumental building—this is the time for reflection and meditation.

I listen to what resonates within me as memories of every moment lived over the past month come flooding back.

It feels as if I have carefully arranged a domino trail, piece by piece, throughout the journey.

The loss of even one piece’s balance could have caused a chain reaction, jeopardising the entire experience.

 

At this moment, I am not focused so much on the past, whether recent or distant, but rather on the future, in all its forms.

– How will the days to come be shaped by my experience on The Way? –

This is the question I ask myself, though it is impossible to answer right now.

The responses—plural—will come naturally each time life places me at a crossroads or presents me with an obstacle to overcome.

Walking the many kilometres that lead to Santiago de Compostela does not grant new abilities, but it does awaken awareness of the strengths we already possess, enabling us to shape our own destiny.

 

The Way also teaches us lessons about happiness, showing that little is needed to achieve it and that everything else is superfluous.

Material wealth is fleeting, swept away by the first contrary breeze; we need very little, as we learn by living for over a month with only what fits in a backpack.

For the soul’s well-being, however, the essentials are air to breathe and roads to travel—metaphors for a life free from constraints and superficial distractions.

 

Arriving in Santiago de Compostela on foot, after so many days on The Way, is an experience entirely different from arriving by a comfortable flight.

It is precisely the message conveyed by Paulo Coelho in his famous book about the pilgrimage to Santiago: “The important thing is not the destination, but the journey.”

The emotions felt upon arrival build up gradually, step by step, hour by hour, and day by day. They are the result of every single moment experienced along The Way, leading to the ultimate goal.

 

The square is filled with a mix of tourists and pilgrims.

I observe those who, like me, have just finished the long journey, trying to read their emotions through their facial expressions and body language.

Some smile with satisfaction, others are lost in thought. Many embrace, celebrating as though they have won a competition, while others move from tears of joy to quiet reflection—each pilgrim experiences and concludes The Way in their own way.

 

Having finished this long moment of reflection, it is now time for the ritual of photographs to commemorate the completion of The Way.

First, we take group photos with our fellow pilgrims—a way to celebrate reaching the destination and the friendships we’ve built along the journey.

With the classic cathedral backdrop, I pose with Rocco, Giovanna, Amandine, Antonio, Rodrigo, Barbara, and Martina.

Next, it is time for individual photos to send to friends and family.

I send one to my partner right away, to share my joy at arriving in Santiago de Compostela.

For over a month, I’ve kept friends in the dark about my whereabouts, cutting off all communication. Now, however, this feels like the right moment to break the silence and share my arrival on social media.

As expected, “likes” and compliments pour in, as if everyone had been waiting for this “white smoke.”

 

***

It has been about half an hour since our arrival in the square, and although the desire is to stay longer, it is time to think about practical matters.

 

We immediately head off to collect the Compostela, the document that certifies the pilgrimage to the tomb of the Apostle James.

For this, there is a dedicated Pilgrim’s Office (Oficina de Acollida ao Peregrino) located at rúa Carretas 33, about two hundred metres from the cathedral.

Like any other public service office, it is organised with counters and an electronic queue system, complete with a display for ticket numbers.

I believe we were lucky not to find many people waiting, as I’ve heard that long queues are common.

Before long, my number is called, and I present myself at the counter.

Receiving the Compostela is neither automatic nor immediate; first, I have to answer a series of questions: my nationality, the reasons for undertaking The Way, whether it was done on foot, by bike, or on horseback, the starting point, the total kilometres covered, and so on.

As I respond, the clerk carefully inspects my Credential, turning it over and examining it thoroughly.

He looks at each stamp closely, and I can’t help but think that every one of them represents not only sweat and effort but also the joy I felt each time I added a new piece to my journey.

It almost feels like a test to obtain a licence… a “pilgrim’s licence.”

Only after this brief but intense interview (which lasted only a few minutes but felt like an eternity due to the solemnity of the moment) does the clerk stamp my Credential with the official seal of the cathedral of Santiago and complete the Compostela, writing my name in Latin along with today’s date.

At the same time, I also request certification for the kilometres I walked, which is formalised with a second parchment.

 

For security reasons, large backpacks are not allowed inside the cathedral.

To address this, there is a storage service in the same building as the Pilgrim’s Office, where we leave our backpacks for a fee of 2 Euros each.

 

Now all that remains is to find seats for the “pilgrim’s mass.”

 

For several years, the cathedral has been under renovation in preparation for the upcoming Jubilee Year in 2021.

The works are now well advanced, and the upper parts of the two towers are already free of scaffolding.

However, scaffolding still covers the lower section of the façade, preventing access through the main entrance.

This means we cannot see the famous “Portico of Glory” or walk beneath it, as tradition dictates upon completing The Way.

The portico, a late Romanesque sculptural masterpiece, is richly adorned with around two hundred figures referencing the Apocalypse.

 

Currently, the entrance is through the praza das Praterías, the same square that features the 19th-century fountain de los Caballos.

It is 11:30 when we step inside the cathedral.

In the end, we didn’t arrive as early as planned, but we still manage to find good seats in the third row.

We are directly in front of the main altar, dominated by the large statue of Saint James, draped in a silver cloak.

The altar, situated above the Roman mausoleum containing the Apostle’s remains, is an elaborate golden baroque structure crowned by a canopy supported by large angelic figures.

Behind the statue of Saint James, we see a steady stream of visitors. A narrow passage allows pilgrims to embrace the Saint from behind.

In front of the altar hangs the “Botafumeiro,” a large and heavy censer made of brass and silver, suspended by a sturdy rope.

At the end of certain religious ceremonies, this massive incense burner is swung like a pendulum—broadly and at great speed—by the “tiraboleiros,” a group of eight men who skillfully operate handles attached to the rope.

For the record, over the centuries, there have been a few incidents involving the “Botafumeiro,” though fortunately without any harm to people.

Historically, the Botafumeiro was used to mask the odours of pilgrims crowding the cathedral. Today, it has become an attraction and is used only during Holy Years and on special occasions, such as major religious festivals, including the feast of Saint James on 25 July.

Additionally, the Botafumeiro can be swung upon request, provided someone is willing to pay several hundred Euros. Such requests typically come from groups that can pool together the required amount.

 

At precisely noon, with the cathedral packed and many people standing, the solemn “pilgrim’s mass” begins.

Right at the start, the names of all pilgrims who received the Compostela in the last 24 hours are read aloud.

If the list is too long, the pilgrims are mentioned in groups or by nationality.

The ceremony is very moving and is conducted by several priests, who deliver parts of the liturgy in multiple languages, in addition to Spanish.

The mass lasts about forty minutes. At the end, we feel slightly disappointed because the Botafumeiro is not used.

We already knew this would be the case, as I mentioned earlier, but we had still hoped that today might be one of those occasions when it is swung by request.

 

After the mass, we move from the sacred to the profane.

Together with our large group of pilgrim friends, we head to a local bar to celebrate our arrival in Santiago de Compostela with beers and tapas, as well as the bonds we’ve formed during The Way.

We further cement our friendship with yet another group photo and by creating a WhatsApp group to keep in touch once we go our separate ways.

The gathering also provides an opportunity to say goodbye to Antonio from Seville, who leaves immediately, while the rest of us plan to meet again tonight for dinner.

 

After retrieving our backpacks, it’s time to check in at the hostel.

Situated in the historic centre, not far from the cathedral, O Fogar de Teodomiro is the small establishment I booked yesterday afternoon for myself, Rocco, and Giulia.

 

Just as we did throughout The Way, we don’t miss the chance for a sightseeing tour of our current location.

The partially cloudy sky from this morning has given way to grey rain clouds.

It’s around 16:30 when Rocco, Giulia, and I set out once more towards the heart of the Galician city.

 

We return to the cathedral to explore its interior more freely, as there are no religious services taking place at this time.

The cathedral of Santiago follows a Romanesque design, with a Latin cross layout divided into three naves.

Construction began nearly a thousand years ago, in 1075, and continued over the centuries. For this reason, the architecture of the sacred building reflects a mix of styles—Romanesque, Gothic, Baroque, Plateresque, and Neoclassical.

To give an example, the Baroque main façade was built to protect the earlier Romanesque “Portico of Glory.”

 

Like the other pilgrims and visitors, we perform the ritual of embracing the Apostle James, passing along the narrow path behind the statue.

Then, descending into the crypt, we pay homage to the holy relics contained in a silver urn.

The moment is deeply moving and represents the ultimate goal of The Way.

The time allowed to linger in front of the Saint’s tomb is brief, as the steady flow of people requires the line to keep moving.

 

The spectacular setting of the main altar is mirrored in the nineteen chapels spread throughout the cathedral.

Since it’s impossible to summarise their details in just a few lines, I leave the reader to consult specialised guides.

 

Outside the cathedral, the weather remains overcast, but at least it has stopped raining.

Now we wander through the city’s streets at a leisurely pace, with no fixed plans.

While strolling through the historic centre of Santiago de Compostela, we run into many familiar faces and stop to chat with several of them.

However, we have an appointment at a café with a special friend with whom Rocco and I shared a good portion of The Way—Dante, the man who pulled a trolley carrying his backpack.

As we sip our beers, Dante tells us how his journey progressed after he left us to move ahead at a faster pace.

He also shares news about his trolley, which unfortunately he had to abandon after the wheels were completely worn out from the many kilometres travelled.

 

Tonight’s dinner is at Casa Manolo, a renowned restaurant in plaza de Cervantes, where once again we are quite a large group.

 

After dinner, the evening continues with various celebrations and a nighttime tour of Santiago de Compostela’s lively bars and clubs.

 

For many, The Way ends here, including Giulia and Amandine.

However, for Rocco, Giovanna, and me, it is not yet over—we set off early again tomorrow.

For this reason, we don’t stay out too late and, after saying goodbye to our cheerful group of fellow pilgrims, we head to bed.

© Aldo Lardizzone 2020

CREATIVE COMMONS