Step by Step on The Way of Saint James
From Naples to Toulouse
9 May 2018
Naples is still asleep as a taxi takes me to the airport at five in the morning.
With the darkness and the still-empty streets, looking out of the window, I feel as though I’m watching a black-and-white silent film: the colorful scenes of daytime life in the city of “Pulcinella,” enriched by countless sounds and noises, seem not to belong to these places.
The calm and tranquility, somewhat surreal during this brief journey, make me feel as if I’m suspended in mid-air, aware that from this moment on, I’ll be carried through events by a flow I likely won’t be able to control.
Unlike the city, the airport is already bustling with people. Today is a weekday, and at this hour, most travelers are on business trips: some are in suits and ties, while others wear “regular” clothes. Among all, two men in trekking outfits, both wearing the same bright yellow technical T-shirt, catch my attention.
Shortly after, finding them at the same boarding gate as mine, I can’t resist asking them: – Where are you headed dressed like that? –
The two men calmly reply – To The Way of Saint James! –
Their answer amazes me because I never thought I’d meet my first pilgrims here in Naples.
Sharing the same goal, we introduce ourselves and chat while waiting to board, naturally talking about The Way.
They are Franco and Peppe, both in their seventies, full of enthusiasm—and luggage. In particular, Franco has a backpack one and a half times the size of mine.
Peppe is on his second Way, and with his characteristic talkativeness, he spares no details in telling us “rookies” many anecdotes from his past experience.
The two cheerful characters met on a beach near Torre del Greco: Peppe was training for The Way, carrying a backpack while walking along the shore; Franco, on the other hand, was taking solitary hikes as a form of exercise. From that meeting, their plan to complete The Way of Saint James together was born.
The flight to Toulouse departs punctually at 6:40.
Upon arrival, I take a tram from the airport to the train station.
I’m already aware of the strike declared for today by French railway staff, so the information desk assistant, whom I approach for updates on train schedules, can only confirm the strike.
I’m quite disappointed about the one-day delay to the start of my Way; however, I’ll soon discover that this setback will lead to positive developments, which I’ll recount in due time.
At the station, I meet Franco and Peppe again. Since they too are stuck in Toulouse because of the strike, I invite them to join me at the hostel where I plan to stay.
After settling in at the Petite Auberge de Saint-Sernin, with nothing else to do, we decide to explore the city despite the grey sky threatening rain and the rather cool temperature.
While planning the journey from Naples to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port—first by plane to Toulouse and then by train—I had decided to skip visiting this interesting city at the foot of the Pyrenees. According to my plan, once I arrived in Toulouse, I would immediately continue toward the starting point of The Way, driven by the strong desire to begin walking toward Santiago de Compostela.
Instead, fate ensured that I wouldn’t miss the chance to get at least a glimpse of the medieval heart of the city, much of whose streets still follow the layout of the ancient Roman settlement.
Nicknamed the Ville en Rose, due to the exposed brick facades of many buildings, Toulouse is rich in history while also being a European hub for the aeronautical and space industries.
My sightseeing tour, together with Peppe and Franco, begins with a visit to the nearby Basilica of Saint-Sernin (Saint Saturninus): built on the tomb of the martyred saint, the city’s first bishop, it is considered one of the finest examples of Romanesque architecture in southern France.
We step inside to explore it and discover that today, as in ancient times, the basilica is an important stop for pilgrims heading to Santiago de Compostela.
We continue our city tour by heading to the spacious Place du Capitole. The square, dominated by the imposing historic Capitole building, home to the town hall, hosts its lively morning market with numerous stalls.
Our visit proceeds to the Pont-Neuf, an ancient brick bridge with irregular arches that connects the two banks of the Garonne River; the Jardin Royal, a green oasis of peace in the heart of the city; the cathedral of St-Etienne (Saint Stephen), whose structure reflects various architectural styles due to its construction over five centuries. We end the tour at the Japanese Garden, a small yet extraordinarily beautiful green area inspired by the culture of the Land of the Rising Sun.
Evening has arrived, and after so much walking, we stop for dinner at one of the many eateries filling the lively streets of the historic center, choosing a Lebanese restaurant.
To end the day, we make another stop at Place du Capitole. At this hour, the square presents a very evocative scene: completely empty, without the stalls of the morning market, and spectacularly lit.
Having been awake since four in the morning and after a long, non-stop day, I go to bed around twenty-two, hoping there won’t be more train problems tomorrow.
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