Machu Picchu.
Like a hidden nest atop the Andes

 

 

August 16, 2004

How strange! Aside from the four friends walking with me, I don’t see anyone else.

In fact, I can barely see anything at all. The darkness is absolute, and the dim beams of our flashlights illuminate just a small patch ahead of us. We can hardly see where we’re stepping.

If there were other people around, surely we’d hear their footsteps on the dirt trail or see the glow of their lights.

But no, it’s clear—there’s no one else taking the same route as us.

And yet, I imagined it differently.

I pictured meeting many travelers, all on the move like us, aiming to reach the legendary destination at dawn.

A fleeting doubt crosses my mind—could we be on the wrong path?

But that’s impossible; there’s only one trail to follow.

The sound of the Río Urubamba flowing to my left reassures me.

It’s the one reference point that gives me certainty we’re heading in the right direction.

The Urubamba Valley is tightly enclosed by towering mountains, so narrow that it’s often referred to as a canyon.

The blackness of the night is so intense that it conceals even the massive peaks lining our route.

Perhaps it’s the magnetic pull of the place, but I can still sense their presence.

I feel as though gigantic beings are standing motionless by the roadside, watching over our passage.

Oddly, the sensation is more ominous than protective.

The alarm had gone off at 3:15 a.m., barely hours after we’d gone to bed.

We had a light breakfast, and by 4:00 a.m., we were out of the small hospedaje in Aguas Calientes, the village serving as our base.

Today is the pinnacle of our trip to Peru.

While this South American country boasts many wonders, Machu Picchu—listed among the world’s marvels and one of the largest, best-preserved archaeological sites—is undoubtedly the most anticipated stop of our journey.

We’ve been walking for nearly an hour along the dirt valley floor when we spot a faint light in the distance. It feels like glimpsing a lighthouse guiding us to shore.

The glow, barely cutting through the night’s blackness, gradually reveals a small bridge over the river as we draw closer.

A sign indicates that beyond the bridge lies the start of the pedestrian trail to Machu Picchu.

We’re relieved—now we’re certain we’re on the right path.

Here, at last, we encounter other humans. Like us, they’re aiming to reach the so-called “Gate of the Sun” (Intipunku in the ancient Quechua language) just before dawn.

We face our adventure with uncertainty about the weather. Only upon arrival will we know if the skies are clear and we can view Machu Picchu in its entirety from the privileged vantage point. Should the Andean landscape be shrouded in clouds, the site will remain hidden, rendering our effort futile.

Since we may never pass this way again, our only choice is to press on and hope for good fortune.

Crossing the small bridge, the ascent begins.

Machu Picchu sits over 2,400 meters above sea level, about 450 meters above the valley floor.

There are two possible routes to reach the site:

One is a dusty, winding road used by buses ferrying visitors from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu.

The other is a pedestrian staircase ascending directly up the mountainside.

Unsurprisingly, the first route is longer but less steep, while the second, though shorter, demands more effort due to its steep, stepped incline.

For the sake of time, we opt for the latter.

Though it’s just past 5:00 a.m. and the altitude is around 2,000 meters, the temperature is mild, thanks to our proximity to the equator.

However, the downside is the humidity.

I don’t know the exact percentage, but it feels like the air is 100% saturated with water vapor—a sensation heightened by the effort required to tackle the steep gradient.

The high steps immediately strain our legs, shorten our breath, and parch our throats. Above all, we sweat as though in a sauna.

Anticipating these conditions, we kept our clothing light. The fleece jackets we wore during the flat valley walk were stashed in our backpacks as soon as the climb began.

But even in just a cotton T-shirt, sweat pours from every pore.

As we ascend, darkness gradually gives way to the first light of day.

The environment around us begins to take shape, revealing its forms and colors.

The trail winds through lush tropical vegetation that completely blankets the mountain.

We complete the climb in about 45 minutes.

Just before 6:00 a.m., we find ourselves standing before Machu Picchu.

We cheer, of course!

...and we’re moved to tears, of course!!!

But we quickly rein in our emotions—our goal isn’t yet reached, and we need to press on.

To reach the “Gate of the Sun,” we still have some ground to cover. Running slightly behind schedule, we set off again after a brief pause.

For now, Machu Picchu is all ours. At this early hour, the large crowds have not yet arrived.

The remaining path is step-free, following the mountainside as a gently sloping, rocky trail.

With enough daylight now to guide us, we quicken our pace to reach the Gate of the Sun in time for sunrise.

It’s 6:30 AM as we arrive at the “Sun Gate.”

During the Inca civilization, this structure served as the entrance to Machu Picchu. Its name comes from the fact that sunlight passes through it during the solstice days.

We sit on a low wall, waiting for the sunrise and taking the opportunity to recover from the effort of the climb.

As the minutes pass, more and more people arrive.

Most of them are those who followed the Inca Trail, the sacred path the Incas used to take to reach Machu Picchu.

This trek is quite challenging and takes four days. While it’s not an easy walk, it’s still an achievable route for many.

Access to the trail is limited, and you must book months in advance.

This was why we couldn’t do it. By the time we planned our trip, all the spots were already taken.

However, today luck has been on our side. There are no clouds, and the visibility is crystal clear.

The view from here is incredible.

The panorama includes the Peruvian Andes, dotted with sharp, lush peaks.

Below us lies the winding Urubamba Valley, with the river snaking through it like a swift, gliding serpent.

But the star of the show, the undisputed winner of a lifetime achievement Oscar, is undoubtedly Machu Picchu. From here, we can admire the “old peak” in all its glory, lying peacefully between two mountains, one of which is the unmistakable summit of Huayna Picchu.

As the sun rises, we marvel at the rays spotlighting the site. It’s just like in a theater performance, where the main subject is highlighted by the focused light of a spotlight.

It’s astonishing to see an ancient cluster of constructions perched on such a steep, inaccessible mountain ridge, as if it were a bird’s nest.

I wonder what drove the Incas to create a legend by building a city above the clouds, invisible from below.

A small group of llamas and vicuñas welcomes us to Machu Picchu.

The amusing camelids are now used to the presence of humans, so they don’t even glance at us, calmly grazing the grass.

And maybe it’s for the best, given their tendency to spit at anyone who stands in front of them.

A local guide takes us on a journey through Machu Picchu, the so-called “lost city.”

Built in the 15th century, the site was never discovered by the Spanish conquistadors.

Abandoned by its original inhabitants at the time of the European invaders’ arrival, it remained forgotten until its accidental rediscovery in 1911.

Under the full sun, now high in the sky, every stone of Machu Picchu gleams. It feels like everything is clearly and transparently narrating the history of this place.

And yet, no!

This citadel in the heart of the Peruvian Andes holds a concentration of mysteries and legends that will likely never be fully unveiled.

Like schoolchildren captivated by a fantastic tale, we listen attentively to the anecdotes, hypotheses, and curiosities shared with us, drawn from the historical reconstructions of archaeologists.

Visiting the sacred temples, we are fascinated to learn about the Incas’ spiritual beliefs. The natural elements of the earth and sky were revered as deities.

We are amazed to see constructions and even enigmatically shaped rocks, over five hundred years old, precisely aligned with celestial bodies and the Earth’s motion.

As we stroll through the streets and squares of Machu Picchu, we feel like we’ve stepped back in time.

After half a millennium, the buildings are nearly intact. Only the roofs are missing, as their original straw construction was inevitably worn away by the elements.

The buildings, however, are crafted from masterfully worked stones. Granite blocks fit together with such precision that not even a knife blade can slide between them.

The result is astonishing, especially when considering that at the time, there were no iron tools, and only very hard stones were used for carving and shaping. Additionally, there were no pack animals for transporting the rocks, and the wheel was still unknown.

From the meticulous craftsmanship of each structure, we understand that Machu Picchu was not a mere "village" in the mountains. From the start, it was designed and built as a spiritual center and the emperor’s residence. The emperor himself was regarded by his subjects as a deity.

We fully enjoy the visit, thanks in part to the beautiful sunny day we’ve been granted. The colors are vivid, and the blue sky complements the green mountains around and the grassy fields covering the open spaces of the site.

In this region, finding such perfect weather conditions is not guaranteed. The Andean peaks are often shrouded in clouds, and rainfall can be heavy.

Our visit continues to the large agricultural area of Machu Picchu, where coca, potatoes, and corn were primarily cultivated.

We learn about the Incas’ dedication to agriculture, evidenced by the hundreds of terraces carved into the mountain slopes.

The irrigation channels were skillfully designed to evenly distribute rainwater to the crops and promote proper soil drainage.

We are fascinated to see how the structures of this iconic city of the Inca Empire are perfectly integrated with the mountain's summit, respecting the natural contours and features of the landscape.

The indigenous people’s design and construction skills are undeniable, considering how these structures, perched on steep slopes and constantly battling gravity, have endured through the centuries. Torrential rains, strong winds, and violent earthquakes have persistently threatened to collapse everything into the valley below.

Spending half a day exploring Machu Picchu has been a succession of unparalleled surprises and emotions. An exhilarating experience that has made the early morning wake-up and the effort of climbing the mountain entirely worth it.

But we can’t leave Machu Picchu without conquering the summit of Huayna Picchu as well. The “young mountain,” whose wedge-like shape rises about 300 meters high, resembles a canine tooth.

Due to its position behind the site, this massif is famous for always appearing in panoramic photos of the Inca citadel.

It’s around noon when we prepare to start the climb to the top of Huayna Picchu.

From below, the mountain strikes me as a giant monster that could at any moment shake off those trying to climb it, like annoying insects crawling over it.

The trail is quite challenging and not recommended for those afraid of heights. The incline is very steep, with steps that are sometimes extremely narrow.

In the most dangerous sections, a rope is stretched to provide support.

We climb one step at a time, following those ahead of us. Sometimes we have to share the same step with people coming from the opposite direction.

As I move forward, I often have to grab the rocky wall to my right with both hands. On the other side, it’s better not to look – there’s only the abyss, a sheer drop of several hundred meters. A single distraction, and this story would remain unwritten.

To reach the top, we finally pass through a narrow tunnel carved into the rock.

The summit is conquered; we are 2,730 meters above sea level.

Once again, the effort is rewarded by the breathtaking Andean panorama and the view of Machu Picchu from a new angle.

Standing atop Huayna Picchu is truly dizzying. The restricted spaces at the summit, with no barriers, and the smooth, sloping rocks beneath my feet make me feel a profound sense of precariousness.

But raising my arms to the sky, I feel a great sense of freedom, as if I could touch the heavens with my hands.

One might think that after the ascent, the hardest part is over. However, retracing the path back down requires even more effort. Now the challenges of the climb are compounded by a constant view of the void below.

Step by step, and without rushing, we navigate even the most difficult parts, and like everyone else, we return safely to the base.

This day, which will undoubtedly be archived among my most cherished travel memories, has been very long and quite exhausting. For this reason, once we return to the village of Aguas Calientes, I join my travel companions for an afternoon of relaxation in the warm waters of the hot springs.

© Aldo Lardizzone 2020

CREATIVE COMMONS