Short travel story in Perù
Machu Picchu.
Like a hidden nest atop the Andes
16 August 2004
How strange! Other than the four friends walking with me, I can’t see anyone else. In fact, I can’t see anything at all. The darkness is absolute, and the faint beams of our flashlights illuminate only small spots ahead of us. We can barely see where we’re stepping. If there were others around, we’d surely hear the crunch of their footsteps on the dirt path or see the glow of their lights. No, there’s truly no one else on this route. And yet, I imagined the opposite. I thought we’d meet many travellers, all walking just like us, aiming to reach the legendary destination by dawn. I almost begin to doubt whether we’ve taken the wrong path. But it’s not possible; there’s only one trail to follow. The soothing sound of the Río Urubamba to my left reassures me we’re heading in the right direction.
The Urubamba Valley is narrow, hemmed in by towering mountains, so much so that it’s sometimes called a canyon. The night’s darkness is so intense it conceals even the massive peaks flanking the route. Yet perhaps it’s the magnetic power of the place that allows me to feel their presence. It’s as though giant beings stand still at the road’s edge, watching our passage. Strangely, the sensation feels more intimidating than protective.
The alarm had rung at 3:15 AM, mere hours after we’d gone to bed. We had a light breakfast, and at exactly 4:00, we left our modest hospedaje in Aguas Calientes, the small town serving as our base. Today is the highlight of our trip to Peru. While this South American country boasts many wonders, Machu Picchu—counted among the wonders of the world and one of the largest and best-preserved archaeological sites—is undoubtedly the most anticipated part of the journey.
We’ve already been walking for nearly an hour along the dirt valley floor when we spot a faint light in the distance. It feels like spotting a lighthouse signalling safe harbour. The glow, barely piercing the night’s blackness, gradually reveals a small bridge over the river as we approach. A sign indicates that beyond the bridge lies the start of the pedestrian path to Machu Picchu. We’re relieved. Now, we’re certain we’re on the right track.
Finally, we encounter other people here. Like us, they’re aiming to reach the so-called “Sun Gate” (Intipunku in the ancient Quechua language) just before sunrise.
We embark on our adventure unsure of the weather conditions. Only upon arrival will we know if the sky will be clear enough to see Machu Picchu fully from the privileged viewpoint we’re heading to. If, instead, the Andean landscape is shrouded in clouds, the site will remain hidden, and our endeavour will have been in vain. It’s unlikely we’ll ever pass through these parts again, so we can only hope for good fortune.
After crossing the small bridge, the ascent begins. Machu Picchu lies at over 2,400 metres above sea level and about 450 metres above the valley floor. This latter measure represents the elevation gain we must conquer to reach our destination. There are two possible routes to take. One is a dusty, winding road used by buses shuttling visitors from Aguas Calientes to Machu Picchu. The other is a steep pedestrian path of stone steps climbing straight up the mountain’s slope. As you might guess, the first route is easier, with gentler inclines, but it’s also longer. The second is shorter but demands greater effort due to its steep gradient and staircase-like structure. For the sake of time, we choose the latter.
Though it’s 5:00 AM and we’re at an altitude of around 2,000 metres, the temperature is quite mild, as we’re not far from the equator. The downside, however, is the humidity. I can’t gauge the exact percentage, but it feels like the air is 100% saturated with moisture—a perception heightened by the effort needed to tackle the steep slope. The high steps immediately test our legs, shorten our breath, and dry out our throats. Above all, we’re sweating profusely, as though we’re in a sauna. In anticipation of these conditions, we’d chosen lightweight clothing for the day. The fleece we wore during the flat valley walk was quickly removed and packed away in our backpacks as soon as the ascent began. Yet even in just a cotton T-shirt, we’re drenched in sweat.
As we climb, the darkness gradually gives way to the first glimmers of daylight. The surroundings begin to reveal themselves, taking on shapes and colours. The path winds through lush tropical vegetation, which completely blankets the mountain. We complete the ascent in about three-quarters of an hour. Just before 6:00 AM, we finally stand before Machu Picchu. We cheer, of course! …and we’re moved to tears, of course!!! But we quickly rein in our emotions, as we’ve yet to reach our intended destination and must press on.
To reach the “Sun Gate,” we still have some distance to cover. Running slightly behind schedule, we resume our trek after a short pause. At this hour, the massive crowds of visitors have yet to arrive, allowing us a uniquely exclusive first glimpse of the site. From here on, there are no more steps. The path follows the mountain’s ridge, transforming into a stony trail with a gentle incline. Given the time lost and the growing light, we quicken our pace, hoping to arrive in time for sunrise.
At 6:30, we reach the “Sun Gate.” During the Inca civilisation, this structure marked the entrance to Machu Picchu. Its name stems from the fact that it aligns with the sun’s rays during the solstices. We sit on a low wall, awaiting the sunrise and simultaneously recovering from the exertion of the climb.
As the minutes pass, more and more people arrive. Most of them are those who followed the Inca Trail, the sacred path that the Incas themselves once used to reach Machu Picchu. It’s a fairly challenging trek that takes four days. Though not an easy stroll, it’s an achievable itinerary for many. Access to the trail is limited, and reservations must be made months in advance.
This was the reason we couldn’t undertake it ourselves. By the time we planned our trip, all available slots had already been filled.
Today, however, fortune is on our side. There are no clouds, and the visibility is crystal clear. The panorama from here is incredible. The view encompasses the jagged and verdant peaks of the Peruvian Andes. Below us, the winding Urubamba Valley appears, with the river slithering through it like a fast-moving serpent.
But the star of the show, the undisputed winner of the lifetime achievement award, is, without a doubt, Machu Picchu. From here, we can admire the “old peak” in all its splendour, lying serenely between two mountains, one of which is the unmistakable summit of Huayna Picchu.
As the sun rises, we marvel at the rays that seem to spotlight the site directly, much like a theatre production where the lead actor is illuminated by a focused beam of light. It’s astonishing to see an ancient settlement perched on such an inaccessible mountain ridge, like a bird’s nest hidden from view below.
I wonder what drove the Incas to create a legendary city above the clouds, invisible from the ground.
A small group of llamas and vicuñas greets us at Machu Picchu. The quirky camelids are so accustomed to human presence that they don’t even glance at us, calmly continuing to graze. Perhaps it’s better that way, given their penchant for spitting at those who get too close.
A local guide leads us through the exploration of Machu Picchu, the so-called “lost city.” The site, built in the 15th century, was never discovered by the Spanish conquistadors. Abandoned by its original inhabitants during the arrival of European invaders, it remained hidden until its accidental rediscovery in 1911.
Under a bright sun now high in the sky, every stone of Machu Picchu glistens. It feels as though everything is clearly narrating the history of this place. But in reality, it’s not so.
The citadel, nestled in the heart of the Peruvian Andes, holds a treasure trove of mysteries and legends that may never be fully unveiled. Like schoolchildren captivated by a fantastic tale, we listen intently to the anecdotes, theories, and curiosities shared with us, drawn from historical reconstructions by archaeologists.
Visiting the sacred temples, we’re fascinated to learn about the Incas’ spiritual beliefs. The elements of earth and sky were revered as deities. We’re amazed to see structures and enigmatic stone formations, over 500 years old, positioned with precise astronomical alignments in relation to the Earth’s movements.
As we stroll through the streets and squares of Machu Picchu, it feels as though we’ve travelled back in time. Even after half a millennium, the buildings are nearly intact. Only the roofs, originally made of straw, have succumbed to the elements. The constructions themselves, made of meticulously carved granite blocks, fit together so perfectly that not even the blade of a knife can slip between them.
This precision is astonishing, especially considering that at the time, the Incas lacked iron tools. They sculpted and shaped stone using only extremely hard rocks. Additionally, they had no pack animals, and the wheel was still unknown to them.
From the intricate craftsmanship of every structure, it’s clear that Machu Picchu was never meant to be a simple village nestled in the mountains. From its inception, it was designed and constructed as a spiritual centre and the residence of the emperor, who was regarded by his subjects as a deity.
The day’s beautiful and sunny weather enhances our visit. The vivid colours, with the blue sky complementing the green of the surrounding mountains and the grassy spaces within the site, create a breathtaking scene. Such perfect weather conditions aren’t guaranteed in these parts. The Andean peaks are often enveloped in clouds, and rainfall can be heavy.
Our exploration continues as we move to the expansive area of Machu Picchu once dedicated to agriculture, where crops like coca, potatoes, and maize were cultivated. We learn about the Incas’ devotion to farming, evidenced by the hundreds of terraces carved into the mountain slopes.
The irrigation channels are ingeniously designed to distribute rainwater evenly across the crops and drain the soil effectively.
We’re captivated by how the constructions of this iconic Inca city blend seamlessly with the mountain’s summit, respecting the natural contours and features of the landscape. There’s no denying the engineering and architectural brilliance of the indigenous people. It’s impressive to consider how structures built on steep slopes, in constant battle with gravity, have withstood the test of time. Torrential rains, fierce winds, and violent earthquakes have all threatened to send everything tumbling into the valley below.
Spending a good half-day exploring Machu Picchu has been a series of unparalleled surprises and emotions. The experience more than compensates for the pre-dawn wake-up and the effort of climbing the mountain.
But we can’t leave Machu Picchu without conquering the summit of Huayna Picchu as well. The “young mountain,” with its pointed shape rising about 300 metres, resembles a canine tooth. Positioned behind the site, this massif is famous for appearing in all panoramic photographs of the Inca citadel.
It’s around noon when we begin the climb to Huayna Picchu’s peak. From below, the mountain seems like a giant monster, ready to shake off anyone trying to scale it—like annoying insects crawling on its back.
The trail is quite challenging and not recommended for those with a fear of heights. The incline is very steep, and the ascent is made on steps that are often incredibly narrow. In the most dangerous sections, a rope is stretched out to offer some support.
Step by step, we make our way up, falling in line behind those ahead of us. Occasionally, we have to share the same step with people coming down the other way. At certain points, I find myself clinging to the rock wall on my right with both hands. On the other side, I avoid looking down, as there’s nothing but a sheer drop of hundreds of metres. A single moment of distraction, and this story might never have been written.
To reach the top, we finally pass through a narrow tunnel carved into the rock. The summit is ours—we’re at 2,730 metres above sea level.
Once again, the effort is rewarded by breathtaking Andean views and a new perspective on Machu Picchu. Standing at the top of Huayna Picchu is dizzying. The summit is small, with no guardrails, and we’re standing on smooth, sloping rocks that feel precarious. But when I raise my arms towards the sky, I feel a profound sense of freedom, as though I could touch the heavens with my hands.
One might think the hardest part is over after the ascent. But in reality, descending requires even more effort. To the challenges of climbing, we must now add the constant sight of the yawning void below.
Step by careful step, we overcome the most difficult sections. Like everyone else, we make it back to the base safely.
This day, which I’ll undoubtedly archive among my most cherished travel memories, has been very long and rather exhausting. That’s why, upon returning to Aguas Calientes with my travel companions, I indulge in a relaxing afternoon in the warm waters of the thermal baths.
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