Step by Step on The Way of Saint James
From Toulouse to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port
10 May 20188
This morning, I woke up rather early—not only because of the excitement of resuming the journey towards Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port but also due to the anxiety caused by dreaming that I had missed the train.
Considering the time, I still have enough of it to go out and look for a café where I can have breakfast.
Surprisingly, all the establishments are still closed, and I struggle to find one that is already open.
After breakfast, I return to the hostel, pack my backpack, and, along with the two Neapolitan pilgrims, set off towards the Toulouse Matabiau station.
On the way, we pass by a shop belonging to a well-known retail chain specialising in sports equipment; unfortunately, it is still closed and will only open at ten. It’s a shame because I could have bought trekking poles at a good price. I didn’t bring them from Italy because, travelling by plane with only hand luggage, I wouldn’t have been allowed to carry them in the cabin.
We arrive at the station well in advance of the 10:37 departure time for the train to Bayonne.
After a quick calculation, I convince myself that I have time to go and buy the poles and return, although I fear my dream from the previous night might come true.
I leave my backpack with my two friends and dash to the shop, arriving just as it opens; I quickly pick out the poles and, still in a rush, make it back to the station in time to comfortably catch the train.
The French railways are running smoothly today, and the train departs with perfect punctuality.
Along the route, the train also stops at Lourdes station, where many pilgrims bound for The Way of Saint James board after arriving here by plane from various European locations.
I start hearing many different languages spoken by people from all over the world; among them, the noisiest group, of course, is made up of Italians.
Among them are some I will soon meet and with whom I will share a good portion of The Way.
At 14:04, we arrive punctually in Bayonne, and instead of continuing with another train, the journey to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port continues on a replacement bus.
Although I’m not sure why the railway line is unavailable, that’s fine—the important thing is to carry on and finally reach the final destination.
The bus departs, packed with pilgrims, at 14:52.
At 16:10, we arrive in front of the railway station of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port (Donibane-Garazi in Basque).
We’re still on French territory here, and the town belongs to the department of the Atlantic Pyrenees, in the Nouvelle-Aquitaine region; the Spanish border is just beyond, about thirteen kilometres away.
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port marks the starting point of the so-called French Way, which today is the most popular route towards Santiago de Compostela among pilgrims.
After retrieving our backpacks from the bus hold, everyone begins to hurry up the small hill leading to the town centre: it’s at this moment that, for the first time, I realise there’s a sense of urgency to secure a spot in the hostels.
I quicken my pace too and, like the others, reach number 39 of Rue de la Citadelle, where Les Amis Du Chemin De Saint Jacques, the office for welcoming pilgrims, is located.
After waiting my turn, I sit before a stocky and cheerful-looking man who records my details. At the same time, he hands me the Credential, the document every pilgrim carries and guards carefully, on which stamps from the locations reached are added as the stages are completed.
Each stamp on the Credential represents the effort endured and, at the same time, the joy of reaching another stage along the way to Santiago de Compostela.
I pay 2 Euros for the Credential. Another 10 Euros are for the bed, which, upon registration, is assigned to me at the nearby municipal hostel, Albergue Accueil Pelerin, located at number 53 of the same street.
Before leaving the office, I choose, among the many available in a container, a shell (concha in Spanish) that I will carry with me throughout The Way.
The shell has no fixed price, and one can freely take one while leaving a donation.
Pilgrims of the past, upon reaching the Atlantic Ocean, would collect these shells from the beach to mark the completion of their pilgrimage. Today, the scallop shell is the symbol of The Way of Saint James, and it is customary to carry one attached to the backpack right from the first stage.
As a “rookie” on The Way, I gradually realise many things. For example, the bed assigned to me so easily was not guaranteed. Indeed, one of the two Neapolitan pilgrims, Peppe, who arrived shortly after me, found no more beds available in my hostel or any others.
Venturing out on his own in search of accommodation, after wandering a bit, Peppe finally manages to find one of the last spots available in town, but he has to pay 21 Euros—more than twice the cost of the municipal hostel.
I’ve heard stories of some who, unable to find a place in either hostels or private facilities, had to make do with sleeping in a tent set up in the garden of a private house, during a cold and rainy night.
After settling into the hostel, I meet up with Franco and Peppe.
We wander through the cobbled streets of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port looking for a place to have dinner, taking the opportunity to admire this charming village, originally built as a fortress at the foot of the Pyrenees.
If today the town marks the first stage of the French Way, in ancient times, when pilgrims departed from their places of origin, it represented the last French locality they encountered on their journey to Santiago de Compostela before entering Spanish territory.
The Rue de la Citadelle, the main street of Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, is lined with characteristic buildings made of pink sandstone. At the beginning of this street, we see the église Notre-Dame du Bout du Pont, a church built at the time of the town’s foundation and later almost entirely rebuilt in the 17th century. At the base of the bell tower is the Notre-Dame Gate, one of the entrances to the old fortified city.
Just past this gate lies the picturesque Vieux Pont, a bridge built over the Nive River.
At 19:00, after buying provisions for breakfast the next morning and snacks for the first stage, we settle down in one of the many establishments in town. We have dinner, ordering our first “pilgrim’s menu.”
This time, the offer includes: salad, chicken with potatoes, and dessert. We pay 12 Euros for the menu, plus 2.50 for the beer. The cost of the dinner is relatively high compared to what one pays along The Way for menus that are not only cheaper but also more plentiful and include wine.
After finishing dinner, it’s around 20:00, and the sky is still bright with daylight. We take the opportunity to visit the Citadelle, a medieval military fortress built on a hill, from which one can see the Pyrenees and the Roncesvalles Pass.
Around 21:30, after taking a shower and preparing my backpack, I go to bed.
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