Step by Step on The Way of Saint James
From Santiago de Compostela to Negreira
12 June 2018
Stage 33 – 22 km
Less than twenty-four hours after arriving in Santiago de Compostela, we are ready to set off again for another three days on The Way.
Rocco and Giovanna are still with me, and today we will be joined by Francisco, the elderly gentleman from Barcelona who expressed his wish to join our group yesterday.
We are delighted to have him with us because he is a kind, cheerful, practical, and determined person.
We leave the hostel shortly after six and head to Praza do Obradoiro.
Although it is still quite dark, the first light of dawn paints the sky a deep blue, framing the cathedral and the Pazo de Raxoi.
The vast square, completely deserted, is even more enchanting thanks to the ochre-yellow lighting, which recreates the atmosphere of bygone times. The lights highlight the two imposing buildings and cast a soft glow on the ancient paving stones, polished by the rain that fell during the night.
While waiting for our new companion on The Way, I take the opportunity to capture a few photos of the square in this magical setting.
Right on time at 6:30, as arranged, Francisco arrives with his large backpack and brisk, lively stride.
Seeing him from afar, alone in the middle of the vast square with the towering cathedral behind him, he appears even smaller than he actually is.
With the group now complete, we set off without delay.
Once on The Way, it is naturally Francisco who leads us, skillfully navigating the route out of the city centre.
Outside the city, we encounter our familiar milestone markers once more.
The same markers that, over the past month, have counted down the kilometres to Santiago de Compostela. Starting at nearly 800, we watched the numbers slowly dwindle until reaching zero yesterday morning when we arrived at the cathedral.
Today, we start again, and the counter now begins at just over 90.
At this point, our new goal is to reach Finisterre, as the logical conclusion of a long journey that begins in the Pyrenees and ends at the Atlantic Ocean.
It is the same route followed by ancient pilgrims.
After reaching the tomb of the Apostle James, they continued to the sea, where they collected scallop shells—the symbol of The Way of Saint James.
The route to Finisterre is usually divided into three stages.
Alternatively, those who do not wish to walk this stretch (or cannot due to time constraints) can reach the “end of the world” by a comfortable coach service in just three hours.
This final part of The Way does not present major difficulties: there are no significant climbs, only gentle ascents and descents that alternate regularly.
Overall, the altitude gradually decreases, as the journey ultimately leads down to sea level.
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Today, the sky is grey again, and there may be a few showers during the day. On the bright side, the temperature is higher than usual, so a light windbreaker is enough for us.
We have been walking for about half an hour when we reach a panoramic viewpoint offering one last glimpse of Santiago’s cathedral.
Even from afar, it rises imposingly above the cluster of historic buildings in the city centre.
For now, it is the last time we will admire it, but after Finisterre, we will return to the beautiful Galician capital for one more day, to once again soak up its mystical, historical, and cosmopolitan atmosphere.
Dense forests typical of the region surround us again, providing the perfect opportunity to breathe in the fresh, natural air.
The environment is still rich in water: tall trees flourish, as does the undergrowth, which is full of ferns.
From time to time, patches of eucalyptus trees replace the native vegetation.
Along the way, we meet our friend Anna, the French teacher with whom we have shared several stages.
She joins our group for a while and, with her sharp and probably expert eye, spots three large mushrooms, assuring us they are edible.
I hope her judgment is correct because I don’t think we’ll be joining her for dinner.
The route continues to pass through small rural villages.
After O Carballal, Ventosa, and Augapesada, we reach Puente Maceira around eleven o’clock—a place listed among the most beautiful villages in Spain.
The small settlement is bordered by the Tambre River.
We cross the river via an ancient medieval stone bridge, built on the foundations of a previous Romanesque bridge that had fallen into ruin. The structure consists of five arches of different sizes, giving the bridge a pointed profile.
A legend tells of disciples of Saint James, pursued by the Romans, who were saved by divine intervention when the bridge collapsed, ending the chase.
Among the cobbled streets and stone houses, the Romanesque church of Santa María de Portor and the more recent Pazo de Baladrón, a private palace built in the mid-20th century, stand out.
The village is also characterized by water mills powered by the river’s flow.
Beyond Puente Maceira, our journey continues through the forest.
Today’s stretch has been fairly short—just twenty-two kilometres—so we reach our destination, Negreira, by 12:30.
The municipal hostel where we will stay, Albergue Xunta de Negreira, is located near the edge of the village, just over a kilometre from the centre.
Its out-of-the-way location is slightly inconvenient for going out to dinner or shopping at a supermarket.
We have to wait about half an hour before we can check into the hostel, as it opens at 13:00.
Once registered, settled into our bunks, and showered, we head back into town.
Because of the hostel’s location, we decide to reverse our usual afternoon routine and go for lunch first, opting for the “pilgrim’s menu.”
After lunch, we explore the local sights, including the medieval fortress Pazo de Cotón and the chapel of San Mauro, connected by a fortified passage supported by three arches spanning the main road.
Nearby, a monument dedicated to emigrants depicts a man setting out to seek his fortune, leaving behind his wife, who holds a baby in her arms, and his older son desperately clinging to his trousers.
We also see the Igrexa de San Xián de Negreira, dating back to the late 18th century, with a simple façade and a bell tower topped by a lantern.
After a stop at the supermarket for supplies for tonight and tomorrow, we return to the hostel, where we end our thirty-third day on The Way with moments of rest, chatter, and light snacks.
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